As our
bus enters Badami town, the first thing that strikes me is the
similarity this place has with Sedona town in the Arizona state of
US, with it's huge, red coloured rocky mountains standing next to the
town. Badami also has very similar looking red mountains, almost in
the middle of the town. Yet there is a difference. The Sedona rocks
just stand there. At the most, few rock climbers are seen around
engrossed in their hobby. In Badami, things are quite different.
After Chalukya king Pulkeshi the first, had shifted his capital to
Badami in the sixth century, successive generations of kings,
facilitated excavations of fabulous rock cut temples in the
mountains. These rock cut temples have some of the most wonderful low
and high relief sculptures inside them. This has made the Badami
mountains a frequently visited tourist place.
The
first thing that I must do now is to have lunch as I am quite hungry.
For last several days I have been eating food, cooked in south Indian
style. Not that I have any complaints about it, today I would prefer
food that tastes different. More like north Indian food. Badami has
several eateries that serve north Indian food. I indulge in one of
these and then relax in an easy-chair. I have time on my side because
climbing up to Badami caves is not exactly a good idea in mid noon.
Historically,
Badami was known as “Vatapi.” It must have changed to Badami,
probably even before Chalukya dynasty time because Greek historian
Ptolemy mentions about it in his book written in 150 CE. Even in
Ptolemy's times, this town was known as a premier trade centre. The
tradition continues and even now this town is a Taluka place and a
trading centre. In Chalukya dynasty time, Badami had great political
and cultural importance as capital of the empire. During reign of
king Pulakesi II, famous Chinese monk Xuen Zang had visited the
Chalukya controlled part of India, which he calls as Maharashtra.
Xuel Zang mentions about the capital city of Maharashtra in his
travelogue. However that place, from his description, is definitely
not Badami. It is possible that Xuen Zang visited some other city
(Like Nashik), which might have been made the temporary capital.
Badami however always remained as the formal capital of Chalukyas.
Later in Eighteenth century, then Sultan of Deccan, Tipoo, had build
a fort on Badami mountain to protect the town from Marathas' ruling
from Pune under reign of Peshavas'. Tipoo Sultan had built along
with the fort a treasury also on the nearby mountain. The ruins of
both these can be seen here.
Badami mountain with fort on top and cave at bottom
Our
bus is now taking us to Badami caves and can drop us at the foot of
the mountain. I look at the watch. Time is about 4 P.M. I can see
clearly the Badami mountain and the fort on the top. Archeological
department has put up a barricade and gate at the base of the
mountain. I buy the entry ticket and enter through the gate. The
lowest cave is only about 10 or15 feet from the ground level. There
are about 30 or 35 steps that lead me to the first cave known as
“Shaiva Gumfa” or cave of Shiva followers. The steps have nice
flower beds on either side with patches of green lawns right up to
the mouth of the cave.
All
Badami caves have a similar type of construction. There is a
foreground created by flattening the rocks near the mouth of each
cave. After climbing about 5 to 7 steps from the foreground, there is
a veranda, which is known as “Mukha Mandapa” or Hall at the
mouth, with pillars to support the roof. The inner and side walls of
this hall at the mouth, have almost life size high relief structures.
The entry to the “Sabha mandapa” or Assembly hall is through
doors provided in the inner hall of the veranda. This hall also has
supporting pillars to support the roof. There are no sculptures
engraved on the walls of assembly hall. However just near the roof,
where supporting pillars touch the roof, support brackets are usually
provided on all four sides of the pillar. On all these brackets there
are many low or high relief sculptures. Behind the assembly hall is a
smaller room or sanctum. Usually, only presiding deity of the cave,
can be found here. No other sculptures are seen in the sanctum.
The first cave of Shiva 
Nataraja showing 81 dance poses
Shiva's doorkeeper
Godess Durga kills demon in form of a Buffalo calf
Half man-half woman Ardha Nari Nateshwara
Hari Hara
Shiva riding a bull with Parvati riding pillion
The
first Shiva cave was excavated during the reign of King Pulakesi the
first, in 543 CE. I am now entering the hall of the mouth after
climbing few steps. On my right there is a high relief of the dancing
Shiva or “Nataraja,” with 9 pairs of hands. If we blank out 8
pairs of hands, the remaining pair shown a dancing position. In other
words, this Dansing Shiva, shows us in all 81 dancing positions.
Directly opposite to this dancing Shiva there is a high relief of a
doorkeeper with a triple pointed spear or “Trishul.” On the inner
wall. There is a high relief of the Goddess Durga trying to kill the
demon “Mahishasur,” who has taken the form of a Buffalo calf.
Next to it is Shiva again in form of half man-half woman creature
called as “Ardha Nari Nateshwar.” In this sculpture, half man
part is Shiva and half woman part is his wife, “Parvati.” Next to
it is a similar high relief, which shows half Shiva and half Vishnu,
known as “Hari Hara.” In an adjacent sculpture, Shiva is riding a
bull and his wife is shown riding pillion with both her legs on one
side; very similar to the way modern women wearing skirts or sarees
ride a scooter or a motor bike. I enter the assembly hall. It is
quite dark inside, but there is not much to see here. I have a casual
look at the sanctum an come out of the cave and again start climbing
the main flight of steps. The next cave is about 60 steps from the
first cave. This second cave is known as “Vishnu Gumfa” or Cave
of the Vishnu.
Vishnu as a dwarf Brahmin
Music makers with Greek hairstyle
swastika design with Yaksha couples
Vishnu as a swine with Godess earth
There
are two important sculptures in this cave. The first one describes
the story of God Vishnu having taken the form of a swine to free
Goddess earth. The Goddess is shown here standing on a lotus and
supports herself with her left hand kept on the head of the swine. In
the next sculpture, the God Vishnu is shown in the form of a dwarf
Bramhin known as “Wamana.” He is shown capturing all three
entities of “Swarga, Patala, and Bhooloka” or Heaven, Hell and
earth from a king known as “Bali.” There is an interesting bass
relief on the pedestal here. There are several figures playing
musical instruments. The hair style however is shown as curly often
seen in Greek sculptures.
Nrisimha killing demon Hiranyakashyapu
Harihara
After
climbing another set of 60 or 65 steps, I reach the third cave known
as “mahaVishnu Gumfa,” or cave of the God “mahaVishnu.” This
cave was excavated in memory of Chalukya king “Kirteevarma” by
his brother “Mangalesh.” in the year 598CE. The main sculptures
here describe God “mahaVishnu,” Half Shiva-Half Vishnu figure
similar to the sculpture in the first cave and Vishnu in form of a
man with Lion head, killing demon “Hiranyakashyapu” and roaring
like a lion.
Third cave of MahaVishnu
Love under mango tree; man giving foot massage to the lady
The
loving couples of Aihole and Pattadakal, which I have decribed
earlier, make there appearance once again in this cave. These couples
are engraved on the pillar roof supporting brackets here. In one of
the high relief the lady is given a foot massage by her man. Another
embracing couple stand below a mango tree. There are also some
“Yaksha” couples. The sanctum has an idol of “maha Vishnu.”
Jain Ascetic
Another
set of 30 steps and I reach the fourth cave. This for a change, is
dedicated to Jaina religion and prophet Mahaveer. There are some nice
sculptures here of Jain ascetics like “Parshavanatha, Gomateshwara
and Bahubali.” I come out of the cave and stand near the wall
facing the steep cliff sloping downwards. The weather is pleasing, a
light cool breeze is blowing and the scene in front of me looks
stunningly beautiful and picturesque. There is a lake opposite me,
deep down. This is known as “Agasti Teerth.” A nice looking
temple on lake side is known as “Bhootnath Mandir.” This part of
Badami is so beautiful that it is no wonder that Chalukya kings chose
this place as their capital.
Agastya Teerth
Bhootnath Temple
I have
now covered almost all of the important places, which are connected
with Chalukya history. The time has come to return home. However one
more important place, worth a visit and connected with the history of
Deccan remains to be seen. I need to cross again a period of eight
hundred years to sixteenth century, when Hampi empire was getting
destroyed. However all that would be for tomorrow. I realize that I
am extremely tired and need to hit the bead as early as possible.
(To be
concluded)
18
December 2012
No comments:
Post a Comment