Standing
near the entrance to war memorial at “Nyukmadung,” I look around.
Nothing could be more pristine and peaceful than this spot. The
valley of Dirang river on one side with river bed almost invisible
because of the green foliage and trees. Further on the other bank of
the river, stands another tall mountain ridge, covered entirely again
with foliage. The memorial, built like a chorten or a small Buddhist
stupa with a golden pinnacle stands next to a steep mountain slope
that comes down and touches other side of the road. Yet on this same
pristine spot, a major bloody battle had developed, fifty two years
ago, resulting in loss of hundreds of Indian lives.
The
Nyukmadong War Memorial is located on a specious 1.5 acre plot of
land, overlooking the famous battle ground of 18 Nov 1962. It nestles
in a three tired terraced landscape with beautiful coniferous trees
planted around. The main memorial is in the form of a 25 feet high
‘Chorten’ conforming to the local ethos and traditions. Entrance
looks like a main access way, to a monastery, in typical Buddhist
style. On both sides of the memorial, plaques listing the names of
officers and Jawans, who died here on that fateful day, have been
erected. The memorial is staffed by JCO's, who are more than willing
to narrate detailed account of the battle. A visit to this memorial
invariably turns in such a solemn occasion that every visitor leaves
the place with a sad and heavy heart.
But
what had actually happened here on 18th
November? Official plaque at the site describes it as a battle,
between 62 Infantry brigade, withdrawing from Sela pass and
proceeding to Dirang and Chinese infiltrators, who had occupied
heights astride Nyukmadong and in which several officers and men of
Indian army had laid down their lives. But what happened here was
not a battle but a massacre. The commanding officer of the 62 brigade
had divided his troops in three columns; one vehicle column and two
marching columns. The vehicle column and one of the marching columns
were asked to withdraw by the main road that passes through
Nyukmadong. When the marching column behind the vehicle column had
rounded a bend in the road beyond the village of Nyukmadong around 2
PM on that day, a harrowing sight suddenly came into view. Vehicles,
guns and bulldozers lay scattered. The road and the shallow drain
running along it were littered with the bodies of the dead and the
dying. This was the end of the vehicle column. The marching column
itself came under heavy fire from the heights overlooking the road.
Soon, the Chinese appeared at the rear also. Efforts to dislodge the
enemy failed and by 1600 hours the column was completely
disorganized. As darkness enveloped the scene, control was lost and
the column disintegrated into small parties. The official Government
report lists that 2290 men of all ranks from 62 brigade were missing
as on 1 December 1962. Majority of them loosing their lives here in
Nyukmadong.
With a
heavy heart, I turn back to the car and we leave. Our next stop would
be at Se La pass. The Sela ridge is a formidable Himalayan ridge that
starts from “Kangto” massif (7000 meters)on India-China border
and runs in southwest direction. It forms the watershed between
Dirang river and the northerly Tawang chu river. There are several
passes in Sela ridge like Tse La, Kye La, Chebra La, Orka La and
Yangyap La, besides the most well known Se La. On the Dirang river
valley side, Sela ridge takes a shape that looks from air, similar to
toes of a foot, with deep river valleys in between toe shaped
extensions. The longest toe like extension ends at Nyukmadong, which
I have just visited. The Chinese infiltrators had used the mountain
track on this extension to come down after crossing the main body of
Sela ridge at Yangyap La.
Deep valley in between Nyukmadong and Senge extensions of Se La ridge
The
main road communication link between Tawang and Dirang is highway NH
229. This road ascends towards Sela ridge on another toe like
extension of the main Sela ridge, west of Nyukmadong extension. We can call it Senge extension for the name of a village located on it. The
whole region is so flush with green vegetation that it is difficult
to make out the valley between Senge and Nyukmadong extensions. The only
identification perhaps is that on the opposite of the river at this
place, there is a small village known as “Dundri.” The road
continues along the river bed till 2 Km further ahead from this spot
and then turns by 180 degrees to start climbing uphill, towards
“Senge” village.
The
road initially passes through thickly wooded areas but as our car
nears the top, we pass through an area, which appears highly prone to
landslides. There are heaps of rock and mud lying on roadside with
road repairing work going on continuously all along this stretch.
From here onwards to the near-abouts of Se La pass, the entire
stretch of the road has military camps belonging to several army
units. I see almost continuously, road signs to that effect.
Approaching Se La
From
Dirang to SeLa, the road ascends by an height of about 7000 ft and
symptoms of high altitude sickness could be felt on this road. As we
climb up the lush green semi tropical vegetation first changes to
conifers and in the last lap totally disappears, its place being
taken by red or brown coloured high altitude shrubs like “Burtse,”
As we near the pass, I see patches and slabs of snow lying on road
side and on rocks. The driver mentions that yesterday it had snowed
at Se La. Suddenly a dense cloud moves in, spreading a thick fog
blanket over the road. Visibility drops to about 25 feet. For next 15
minutes, I witness this fantastic hide and seek between the clouds
and the sun.
I can
see a welcome arch or a gateway erected in the Tibetan monastery
style that says “Welcome to Tawang.” Which means that we have
arrived at Se La. Travelling through a high mountain pass is not
exactly a novelty for me, having done similar journeys through
Khardung La (18380 ft.) and Chang La (17580 ft.) in Ladakh. Compared
to these places, SeLa is at much lower height of 13700 feet. Yet the
thrill of standing at the highest point in a journey is no less
satisfying. The cars stop and we all get out. It is quite chilly
here. I put on my winter jacket. Even then, the biting cold breeze
makes me shiver.
Se La
looks quite different from passes in Ladakh, though there are
similarities too. All these passes are totally barren and devoid of
any vegetation. Se La is however unique in the sense that there is a
large natural lake at the top known as lake Paradise. This lake
totally freezes in winter. From the welcome gate, two roads branch
off on two sides of this lake. Road on the left bank goes to “Chabre
La Pass” towards Bhutan and the one on right bank towards
Nuranang-Tawang.
I
start walking towards the gateway arch. On either side of the pass,
stand two tall massifs with snow covered peaks. The massif towards
left is just next to the pass, whereas, the one on the right is at
some difference away. A jagged rocky peak, much shorter in height,
stands between the massif on right and the pass. Its black colour
reminds me of a heap of cooled down slag, removed from molten steel
and dumped on a side of the steel melting furnace. White slabs of ice
lay scattered everywhere, on the hills and on the roadsides.
There
is a small shed by the side of the road, that serves light snacks and
tea. We decide to break here for lunch. To enjoy a piping hot meal,
in the biting cold of Se La, is an unique experience that just can
not be described in words. After lunch, we reluctantly leave the
picturesque pass and start descending. The paradise lake length along
north south is much more than its width. There is supposed to be
another lake east of Paradise lake, but it is difficult to see from
road, because of high ground, standing in the way. Surprisingly, I
see another large body of water, west of the lake paradise, almost in
continuation, that is not mentioned anywhere in the travel
literature. This body of water is not connected to lake paradise and
is distinctly at some distance away from it. This body of water
appears to have been newly created by authorities, because on the
western end, a constructed bund can be seen. This possiblly could be
a water reservoir for use of residents, living in this area.
As we
come down the slope, I see again the reddish “Burtse” shrubs
everywhere, on mountain sides and in the shallow valley. In fact they
are the only vegetation that is around. The road is fairly dusty and
if you are following a car, expect lots of dust in the air. The road
continues for few Kms on the right bank of a small river, which I
believe is Nuranang Chu. I continue to see many huts but it is
difficult to differentiate whether they are villages or army camps.
After about 3-4 Km the river valley starts deepening and green
foliage appears again on hillsides. There is a steel bridge, which we
cross and continue on the other side of the river valley, which is
deepening and constricting more and more for every Kilometer. After
travelling about 10 or 12 Km, the cars stop at a parking place. I see
number of army sheds with roofs painted in camouflage colours. We
have arrived at another war memorial. The name of the place is
Nuranang, now changed to Jaswantgarh.
( to
be continued in part VII)
1st
December 2014
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