Tawang
is a hill station (2800 meters) with a population of about 50000
people; located at a scenic spot bounded by Tawang Chu river in the
south and high hills on other three sides. It is the last major town
in west Kameng sector of Arunachal Pradesh before India-Tibet border.
Like Bomdila, the entire town has been built on flat terraces cut
along hill slopes. The town is located amongst number of hills and
for moving around one has to go up and down continuously before he
can reach his destination. Tawang like many other Buddhist cities in
Tibet, is dominated by the 400 year old grandiose Tawang monastery.
One can go anywhere in Tawang, he can never miss the monastery
situated on the top of tallest hill around.
View of the monastery from a town lane
Official web site
describes the history of Tawang in these words;
“Tawang
is believed to have derived its name from the Grandiose Tawang
Monastery perched on the edge of the ridge running along the western
part of Tawang township. ‘Ta’ means Horse and ‘Wang’ means
Chosen. As the legend goes the site of the present Monastery is
believed to have been chosen by a horse owned by Merag Lama Lodre
Gyatso who was on a search for an appropriate place to establish a
Monastery but was unable to locate any appropriate site. So he
finally decided to sit on prayer for guidance of divine power. As he
opened his eyes after prayer, he found his horse missing. So, wearily
he went out searching for his horse and found it on the top of hill
known as Tana Mandekhang where once stood the palace of King Kala
Wangpo. Believing it to be a good omen, Mera lama Lodre Gyatso
decided to initiate work for building of the monastery with the help
of the people. The Monastery thus was founded by Mera Lama Lodre
Gyatso in late 1681. However, there is also another belief of
derivation on the name ‘Tawang’. The great treasure revealer,
Terton Pemalingpa gave initiations such as Tamdin and Ka-gyad and
hence the place came to be known as Tawang. ‘Ta’ an abbreviation
of Tamdin; ‘Wang’ means Initiation.”
After
the long and grueling drive of yesterday, it feels nice that today we
would be doing only local sightseeing without much travel. As we
assemble outside near the cars, weather is surprisingly warm because
of the bright sunshine. Ore first destination is the Tawang
Monastery. Tawang, is spite of its remote location, is a bristling
town with number of four wheelers zooming about. School children
dressed in smart uniforms are walking to school. Most of shops in the
town are situated along a single road and traffic is well controlled
because of the “One Way” traffic on most of the roads. This means
that going even to a place just on an adjoining street, one may need
to go around half the town, because the adjoining street may have
access only from other direction.
Historically
speaking, a report describes Tawang of 1962 in these words;
“Tawang
hamlet in 1962 was a well spread-out collection of settlements; the
monastery village, the ani gompa (nunnery) ridge, the Political
offficer's colony, the Assam rifles and army barracks, the helipad
lower down and other scattered buildings. These settlements were
dispersed over an area of 5 to 6 Sq. Km.”
Western Gate
Compared
to this description of 1962, Tawang appears to have changed to a
modern, more integrated township with RCC construction buildings
having all modern amenities. Continuous supply of electric power
appears to be a problem though, because during last night, our room
heater had gone off on number of occasions. After circling the town,
because of one way streets, we start climbing up towards the top of
the hill, where the monastery is located. On the top, the parking
space is limited and is provided at the northern end. We drive
alongside the eastern wall of the monastery, which is about 925 feet
long and 10 to 20 feet high. The cars drop us near the visitors gate
on western side and drive back to the parking space at north end. We
will have to walk down to the parking area after our visit. The gate
is painted in true Tibetan style with stone walls on sides, over
which a two storied ceiling rests. On either side of the gate,
Buddhist religious painting like “ Four harmonious friends” and
that of a lama are seen.
Museum building on left and Library to right
Dukhang or prayer hall building
Building for ceremonial cooking
The
gate opens into a “L” shaped courtyard. On the right is the
monastery museum building. Next to it, but at right angles, is a two
storied building that partly is a store for monks' provisions.
Straight ahead of the museum building, across the stone slabbed
courtyard, that hosts religious dances and other ceremonies held
according to the lunar calendar of Monpa, is a three-storied building
of the the Dukhang or assembly hall and the 'Labrang', which is the
establishment of the Abbot. On the left or on western side of the
courtyard, stands an old building that houses the three-storied
Parkhang library. Opposite to it, is a two storied structure known as
Rhum-Khang. It is used for cooking sacred food on the rituals and
refreshment for the monks on festive days. Tawang Monastery, founded
by Merag Lodroe Gyamtso in the year 1680 – 81 is the second
biggest and oldest monastery in Asia known as Tawang Ganden Namgyal
Lhatse. It normally accomodates about 500 student monks of “yellow
hat sect.” The residential quarters for the student monks are
known as the 'Sha' or hut. These huts, 60 in numbers, are located on
a lower terrace on the eastern side.
The
museum, inaugurated by the 14th
Dalai Lama on 8th
November 2009, occupies two floors in the building. The ground floor
exhibits consists of personal belongings, robes and other ceremonial
objects used by various abbots and Lamas in the past. It also has a
great collection of brocaded robes and Thangkas. I can see a gilded
Chorten fixed with metal panels embossed with Buddist religious
figures. The second floor hall exhibits many items used in past in
the monastery such as, stamps used for producing embossed panels for
fixing on wall of Chorten, steel utensils, churners for the
buttermilk produced from Yak's milk etc. The wall are adorned with
old photographs. The one that interests me most is the one taken of
14th
Dalai Lama crossing into India in 1959, walking down the road in
Dirang like a layman.
Next I
move to the library building. Unfortunately, it is closed, as it is
under renovation. The library is believed to have a collection of
numerous sacred scriptures and Buddhist texts including a collection
of 400-year-old Kangyur scriptures in addition to many other
invaluable manuscripts. Other large collections include the sutras,
Tangym, Sungbhum, old books and other manuscripts, both handwritten
and printed, many of them in gold. Feeling slightly disappointed, I
concentrate of the veranda where plenty of construction material is
stored, covered with wooden chips and dust. The inner wall of the
veranda has two doors on sides with several windows towards the
ceiling. I detect some very old painted Buddhist murals, much
scratched and covered with dust. Yet the original art still can be
seen. The murals remind me of the Ajanta murals.
Next
to library building is the two storied Dukhang or prayer hall. On the
veranda walls are the customary painted figures of guardians of four
directions. During last three or four years, I have visited many
monasteries such as Hemis, Thiksey, Alchi, Likir, Lamayaru and Hunder
in Ladakh and one at Bylakuppe in Karnataka state. As a result, I am
quite familiar with the interior of a Dukhang. This monastery is no
exception, with its rows of low desks and cushioned seats for monks
to sit, ceilings and pillars decorated with banners and Thangkas. The
interiors are painted with magnificent works of art. The inner walls
have sketches of several saints and Bodhisattvas, whereas the
northern wall of the hall is covered with an altar, used for
religious ceremonies. On the left of the altar, a silver casket is
seen holding the Thangkas. The Thangkas have been dedicated to the
chief deity of monastery, Goddess Shri Devi, also known as Palden
Lhamo. This Thangka, which was painted with blood drawn from the
fifth Dalai Lama's nose, was given to Merak Lama by His Holy Highness
the fifth Dalai Lama himself. The Dalai Lama also gave him a painting
of goddess Palden Lhamo to be kept in the monastery. A huge 26 feet
high statue of Buddha in all its magnificance is seen towards the
northern end of the hall. The statue has a begging bowl in the right
hand. One can go around the balcony on the second floor and check his
skill of throwing a coin in the bowl. Buddhists believe that if you
drop a coin in the bowl with a wish, it would be fulfilled. Some of
the designs on Thangkas are so exquisite and eye catching that I feel
amazed at the worksmanship and artistic flair of the votaries.
After
a rather satisfying visit to the prayer hall, I walk out slowly
towards north from the side of the prayer hall building through a
small alley with residences on eastern side and a gate, which
actually is the main gate to the monastery. On my left is a small
shed, where I peep in. There are three small Chorten and one can
light a lamp in front of them. I see series of oil lamps lit by
votaries, burning in front of the Chorten. Right in front, there is a
hut-like structure with walls made of stone. This is called as
'Kakaling'. The internal ceiling of this structure is painted with
Mandalas, while the inside walls have been painted with pictures of
the saints and divinities. A modern building has come up above this
ancient “Kakaling,” perhaps because of the shortage of
residential space. Outside there is also a small shop that sells
mementos, key chains and other small things. There is also a large
prayer wheel again brightly painted
View of Tawang town from monastery
I sit
in the waiting car and soon we are off to our second destination of
the day; one of the oldest Buddhist nunneries known here as “Ani
gompa.” There are number of them around Tawang, but we are headed
for one that is known as “ Thukje Choeling nunnery.”
Comparatively a new one, inaugurated in 2002 by Lama Tengay Rinpoche.
This Ani Gompa is under the control of Tawang Monastery. The Tawang
monastery provides for the every day needs of the nuns and their
monastery.
( To
be continued in Part IV)
16th
December 2014
No comments:
Post a Comment