Searching
on internet with a search engine has become a routine task these days. All of
us use the search engine almost every day to find out about things we do not
know or things that we know but do not remember precisely. All of us have now become used to the exhaustive
search results that these search engine spiders present to us that are
interspersed with advertisements cleverly. Yet sometimes, the search spiders
come up with an odd find of a gem that simply baffles you and makes you think,
Hey! How did I never know that?
It happened
with me a couple of days ago. I was
searching for an obscure place in south Uzbekistan; very near the Afghan
border. This place was described in old books as a mountain pass and only two
writers gave a detailed description of it. The first writer was the famed 7th
century Chines traveler, Xuan Zhang, who calls it as Iron Gate and goes on to
describe it as; “ The pass so called is bordered on the right and left by
mountains. These mountains are of prodigious height. The road is narrow, which
adds to difficulty and danger. On both sides there is a rocky wall of an iron
colour. Here there are set up double wooden doors, strengthened with iron and
furnished with many bells hung up. Because of the protection afforded to the
pass by these doors, when closed, the name of Iron gates is given.”
The
second description comes from the travelogue of one “ Ruy Gonzalez De Clavijo,”
who was ambassador of Henry III. of Castile, to the court of Timur in 1404. He
describes this pass as ;” This hill is very high and there is a pass leading
up by a ravine, which looks as if it has been artificially cut, and the hills
rise to a great height on either side, and the pass is smooth and very deep. In
the center of the pass there is a village, and the mountain rises to a great
height behind. This pass is called the great gates of iron.”
Among the
hundreds of links thrown up by the search engine on my computer screen, there
was one link of a book that looked most uninteresting because of its old
fashioned long name; “The universal geography: the earth and its inhabitants;
edited by E.G. Ravenstein and A.H. Keane.” Since I was not able to find any
further details from any of the other web sites, I thought of downloading the
book and did it. When I opened the book, I found that the author of the book was
actually someone else. It was written by a person known as Elisee Reclus.
This book
surprisingly not only gave full details of the place, but had also included a
line sketch of the place. It described the pass as;” One of the southern
branches of the Kashka rises in a highland district formerly famous for
containing one of the " wonders of the world. This is a defile 40 to 65
feet broad, and nearly 2 miles long, traversed by the route leading from Balkh
to Samarkand by the Shirabad River, Shehi'-i-sebs, and the Samarkand tau range.
When visited by the pilgrim Hwen-T'sang this defile was closed by folding
gates, strengthened with bolts and adorned with belfries. Eight centuries
afterwards Clavijo, Spanish envoy to the court of Tamerlane, also passed
through the "Iron Gate," but the artificial structure had
disappeared, and the place is now called Buzgola-khana, or the "Goat
Hut." But the nearest town retains the significant name of Derbent,"
I really
got interested in this book and its author, after finding detailed information
about such an obscure spot, in it. To my utmost surprise, the book turned out
to be a giant; by any standards. “The universal geography: the earth and its
inhabitants” is a masterwork that has been published in 19 volumes, originally
in French. Each volume is dedicated to a different part of the world. The
author, Élisée Reclus or Jacques Élisée
Reclus (15 March 1830 – 4 July 1905) was a renowned French geographer, writer
and anarchist. He produced this 19-volume masterwork, originally titled as “La
Nouvelle Géographie universelle, la terre et les hommes” over a period of
nearly 20 years (1875–1894.)
Reclus was
born in the French town of Sainte-Foy-la-Grande, as a second son of a of a
Protestant pastor and his wife. The couple had fourteen children, quite a few
of which achieved renown as men of letters, politicians or members of learned
professions. His two brothers Onésime and Élie Reclus, actually also became
like him geographers. Reclus began his education in Rhine province of nearby
Prussia and later continued it at Protestant college of Montauban in southern
France. He completed his studies with an
exhaustive course in geography under famous German geographer, Karl Ritter
(1779 – 1859), considered as one of the founders of modern geography at
University of Berlin.
A major
political upheaval tormented France in December 1951, when the then president,
Louis Bonaparte proclaimed himself the Emperor Napoleon III. Fed up with the
developments, Reclus left France and spent next six years travelling and
working in Great Britain and United states. He settled down as a tutor in 1853
at a plantation, about 50 miles upriver from New Orleans in Louisiana. He
published two books,’ impressions of antebellum New Orleans’ and ‘Fragment d'un
voyage á Louisiane,’ in 1855.
He returned
to Paris and was attracted to the anarchist movement. He was arrested in 1871
for anti-national activities and sentenced to deportation for life. Because of
intervention by supporters from England, the sentence was commuted in January
1872 to perpetual banishment from France.
Reclus
settled in Clarens, Switzerland, where he wrote his masterwork ‘La Nouvelle
Géographie universelle, la terre et les hommes.’ An English edition also was
published simultaneously, also in 19 volumes, the first four by E. G.
Ravenstein, the rest by A. H. Keane. This masterwork examined every continent
and country on earth in terms of the effects that geographic features like
rivers and mountains had on human populations. Reclus’ books were profusely
illustrated with maps, plans, and engravings.
For their extreme
accuracy and brilliant exposition, which gave them permanent literary and
scientific value, Reclus’ writings were awarded the gold medal of the Paris
Geographical Society in 1892. He was also awarded the 1894 Patron's Gold Medal
of the Royal Geographical Society in London.Reclus was
appointed chair of comparative geography at the University of Brussels, in
1894, and moved with his family to Belgium, where he stayed till his death in
1905.
An
independent scholar and author, Kirkpatrick Sale has this to say about Reclus’s
writing.” His geographical work, thoroughly researched and unflinchingly
scientific, laid out a picture of human-nature interaction that we today would
call bioregionalism. It showed, with more detail than anyone but a dedicated
geographer could possibly absorb, how the ecology of a place determined the
kinds of lives and livelihoods its denizens would have and thus how people
could properly live in self-regarding and self-determined bioregions without
the interference of large and centralized governments that always try to
homogenize diverse geographical areas.”
Fortunately
for us, most of the volumes of “The universal geography: the earth and its
inhabitants” are available on net and can be downloaded. It may be worthwhile
to download them and keep them in our library.
19th
December 2015
This is a great find sir. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteVery interesting post. Thanks a lot.
ReplyDeleteMangesh Nabar
The pass is clearly visible SW of Derbent, Uzbekistan on Google Maps but the contours make me doubt whether it is a narrow cleft as shown in sketch.
ReplyDelete